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Dining with Dioxin

By Karen J. Coates / Photo by Jerry Redfern
March 7, 2012
The Faster Times

Sepon-FishFT400-300x300Mrs. Saw had a gravely voice that bugled commands in a grandmotherly way. “Sit down! she insisted. We obeyed, and she shoved steaming plates and bowls of homemade food our way—minced-meat salad, noodle soup, and fresh fish from the river. We ate at Mrs. Saw’s little wooden restaurant near the old Ho Chi Minh Trail most every day and night for nearly a week. And now I wonder: was her fish laced with dioxins? Was her meat safe to eat?

My husband, Jerry, and I knew US forces had sprayed that part of southern Laos with herbicides (mainly Agent Orange and its colorful cousins) during the Vietnam War. But we didn’t think so much about that spraying as we sat at Mrs. Saw’s table and downed her sticky rice with fish paste, chiles and fragrant herbs. READ MORE

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Food Miles, Southeast Asian Style – Rambling Spoon blog

By Karen J. Coates / Photo by Jerry Redfern
Feb. 24, 2011
Rambling Spoon

©2010 Jerry RedfernI’ve been thinking a lot about the journeys my dinners endure. The more I read, the more I learn, the more trouble I have shaking the numbers: an average plate of American food travels up to 2,500 miles between farm and table. That’s an astonishingly long haul that inextricably ties modern meals to fossil fuels. These grim realities are well documented in many places. But I don’t aim to get all academic on you—not right here, right now, anyway.

I’d rather take you to a little place called Muang Khua on the Nam Ou River in northern Laos. It’s a place where road meets water and people meet each other with innumerable items to tote, trade and transport along this long route, which extends from Dien Bien Phu in Vietnam, through the Lao city of Udomxai, and all the way west toward the border with Thailand. Thai packaged goods head east on cramped, dusty buses; their Vietnamese counterparts go the opposite way. Chinese loot travels in every direction. READ MORE

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Life After Wartime – Sierra

During the Vietnam War, the United States flew 580,000 bombing runs over Laos—an average of one every eight minutes for nine years. Today, Laotians live and die among 80 million unexploded munitions, some of them valuable as scrap metal or turned into flower boxes, many of them as dangerous as the day they dropped from the sky.

By Karen J. Coates / Photo by Jerry Redfern
January/February 2011
Sierra

Bomb boatLaos is the most heavily bombed country on Earth per capita. Between 1964 and 1973, in a sideshow to the Vietnam War, the U.S. military dropped more than 2 million tons of explosives on this landlocked Southeast Asian country. It was a secret campaign, unauthorized by Congress. Laotians suffered the equivalent of one bombing raid every eight minutes for nine years. The people have never recovered, and neither has the land.

Up to 30 percent of the bombs that were dropped did not detonate on impact, and they remain volatile in the soil today. More than 50,000 people have been killed or maimed since the bombings began, with more than 20,000 of the casualties resulting from accidents after the war ended, according to a recent survey by Laos’s National Regulatory Authority for Unexploded Ordnance.

While munitions fell in hundreds of shapes, sizes, and varieties, perhaps most pernicious were the “bombies.” More than 270 million of these cluster submunitions were crammed into casings that opened in midair, scattering weapons across the land. They look like toys—yellow, green, brown, round like softballs or shaped like pineapples. Kids find them in the fields; villagers find them in the forests.

Today, unexploded ordnance contaminates nearly half of all arable land in Laos, according to the World Bank’s LaoPeople’s Democratic Republic Environment Monitor. Yet thecountry’s subsistence farmers need that land to survive: Nearly 70 percent of the population lives in the countryside, growing, foraging, fishing, and hunting. Almost every day, a Laotian is killed or maimed by unexploded ordnance. A thriving scrap-metal trade exacerbates the problem, since villagers dig for bombs. Metal sells for roughly 10 cents a pound; villagers can earn more from selling a big hunk of steel than they can from most other available work. READ MORE

 

 

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Bombs Threaten Lao Food Security – Rambling Spoon blog

By Karen J. Coates / Photo by Jerry Redfern
Nov. 9, 2010
Rambling Spoon

©2010 Jerry RedfernLaos is having its 15 minutes this week. As hundreds of foreigners gather in the capital for the First Meeting of States Parties to the Convention on Cluster Munitions, stories of unexploded bombs are pouring forth. And yet, it’s but a trickle considering the issue’s gravity. If you’ve followed Rambling Spoon for a while, you know this. You know that old American bombs still devastate Laotian farmers and their families. You know that bombs, on average, kill or injure one person almost every day in Laos.

But allow me my soapbox one more time, as I post a few more photos from our most recent trip this year. READ MORE

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Mystery Plain – Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia

There’s little known about the origins of the stone jars strewn across the bucolic landscape of northeastern Laos—aside from the fact that they are under threat from unexploded ordnance.

By Karen J. Coates / Photo by Jerry Redfern
October 2010
Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia

T+L AsiaMy introduction to the jars began in the back of an old black Russian sedan, careening across the mud-slick tracks of northeastern Laos. It was the middle of monsoon season. The rain came down, the mud came up and I couldn’t see a thing through spattered windows. After more than an hour slipping and sliding through the countryside, we parked in a gaping puddle. My guide, a young man named Bounnyot, led me up a steep path to a vista overlooking green peaks and valleys, and dozens of enormous stone vessels taller than many a local. The jars marched straight across my line of sight. Up close, I saw tadpoles swimming in the pools of rainwater collected inside. Spiders stretched their webs across the stone. My guidebook had prepared me for an amazing sight but nothing this vast, serene or sublime. Then Bounnyot told me he learned from his grandfather that the jars were gigantic tuns, built to hold lao lao, the local mind-bending hooch.

Really? Did Bounnyot believe that?

“No,” he chuckled. “Well, maybe.”

It’s a familiar tale to Julie Van Den Bergh, an archaeologist now based in Hong Kong who spent several years working for unesco and is currently preparing the Plain of Jars for status as a World Heritage Site. In fact, she hears this story
all the time: an ancient king named Khun Cheung, victorious in battle, built these jars to hold his celebratory elixir. “I don’t have a problem with lao lao,” Van Den Bergh said. But science tells her these jars had greater purpose—as the funerary urns of an unknown ancient civilization. READ MORE (PDF)

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Old Bombs Shatter Laotian Women’s Lives – Women’s eNews

War-era ordnance kills and maims hundreds of Laotian villagers each year. Eighty-five percent of victims are men, leaving numerous women to fend for their families..

By Karen J. Coates / Photo by Jerry Redfern
Aug. 22, 2010
Women’s eNews

Lao farming womanVIENTIANE, Laos–Five years ago, 24-year-old Yue’s husband, Lue Ha, hit a bomb while foraging for medicinal herbs in the jungles of northern Laos. The accident blinded him.

Since then, Yue, who only goes by one name, says, “Ooh, there are many things that have changed.” She feels “like two or three persons in one,” having to care for her husband and two young children. “The greatest difficulty is everything in the family became mine–husband’s job became mine. Children’s job became mine…I just tried to grow very little rice for the family. And I also did a little embroidery to sell and earn money.”

The couple could not maintain their farm, so Yue’s husband studied massage through an aid group in Vientiane, the country’s capital. Afterward, he opened a massage business in a tiny Phonsavanh apartment where the family of four now lives.

“Since I’m blind, it’s hard to earn a living,” Lue Ha said. He gets on average two customers a day who pay about $3 a session. “It’s not really enough because we have to pay for rent, electricity, water.” If no one shows up, “I don’t earn,” he said. READ MORE

 

 

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Banning the Cluster Bomb – Rambling Spoon

By Karen J. Coates / Photo by Jerry Redfern
Aug. 1, 2010
Rambling Spoon

Banana farmerAn international treaty banning the cluster bomb takes effect today. Cluster bombs are large weapons that hold up to several hundred small explosives designed to scatter across the land when dropped from the air. They are deadly hazards to farmers in postwar societies around the world.

Farmers in Laos have faced these dangers for decades. Millions of cluster munitions remain in their soil since the U.S. bombing campaign ended nearly 40 years ago. Since then, more than 20,000 people have been killed or maimed in accidents involving unexploded ordnance (UXO). Aside from soldiers, farmers account for the majority of UXO accident victims in Laos. Note: the United States has not signed the treaty banning cluster bombs—but 108 other countries have. READ MORE

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One Man’s Bomb is Another’s Garden Hoe – GlobalPost

In Laos, villagers turn American war scrap into inventive tools.

By Karen J. Coates / Photo by Jerry Redfern
July 28, 2010
GlobalPost

For GlobalPostVIENTIANE, Laos — A scorching sun settled across southern Laos, as farmers burned the land to make new fields.

A woman hacked at weeds with two young children in tow, the heat of a nearby fire caking her in a sweaty, sooty film. She paused a moment, wiped her neck, then hoisted her hoe. Sitting behind her thatched hut was the casing of a 750-pound bomb made at Pine Bluff Arsenal, Arkansas. Its label was clear: “Special firework. Handle carefully. Keep fire away.”

Laotians everywhere continue to unearth American bombs, dropped nearly 40 years ago. Today, wartime remnants spark some of the country’s most creative construction and engineering. Villagers turn scrap into tools and utensils — everything from bowls to buckets, boats, spoons, knives, hoes, troughs, ladders, planters, cowbells, stilts and pedestals for satellite dishes. READ MORE

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This Garden Is the Bomb

By Karen J. Coates / Photo by Jerry Redfern
June 15, 2010
The Faster Times

bombplanterendofhike-300x201It’s that glorious hour when the slanted rays of a setting sun dazzle the world. This stretch of road through rural Laos sees more chickens, pigs and cows than cars or people. It’s hot and dry, and the earth is scorched from months without rain.

I spot a little oasis of green—clumps of scallions, thick and tall, bedded in dark little goat pellets. A short woman with arms outstretched showers her garden with buckets of clear, clean water. The onions grow at eye level, perched across two tree trunks in a solid metal casing made from an American bomb. READ MORE

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Pig Stories, Part 2

The Spiritual Pork

By Karen J. Coates / Photo by Jerry Redfern
May 15, 2010
The Faster Times

This is the second in a three-part series examining the lives and deaths of Asian pigs.

magicpig-b6-200x300I wake to the stench of burning hair. It’s the start of a three-day “Support the Village” ceremony held each year by Tai Daeng and Khmu villagers around the spring equinox-the hottest, driest time of year when rice is running low and farmers have nothing yet to grow. Families feast on rich slabs of pork-then dance and sing and drink for three riotous days.

But first: the gods must be honored.

On that first afternoon, Jerry and I follow a path at the edge of the village school house, through a tangle of forest to an opening around a single towering tree. A small wooden spirit house stands at the base of that tree.

Some 30 men and boys, and just a few little girls, gather around a freshly slaughtered pig on a blanket of banana leaves. It’s shaved (thus the acrid burning hair), with its back to the ground. The head is hung to the right of the spirit house, the rump (with tail) to the left. One man slices the belly, then a flutter of hands digs inside. The liver is gently extracted, the intestines tossed into a pail. Blood spatters the earth, ruby against emerald. The men continue to dig, plucking guts and stringing meat and feet with bamboo twine. A big black wok burns fiercely, full of entrails mixed with salt and MSG. READ MORE